Journey report and images by Imogen Warren.
The Cairns to the Daintree area is situated within the Far North Queensland space of Australia. It encompasses a slender coastal strip between the Nice Dividing Vary to the west and the Coral Sea and the Nice Barrier Reef Marine Park to the east. It’s characterised by a comparatively slender coastal plain fringed by stunning sandy seashores, rain, and mangrove forests, particularly nearer to the Daintree River.
The rugged, rainforest-clad mountains of the Nice Dividing Vary type the western boundary of the area, create dramatic backdrops, and affect the local weather by orographic rainfall. Much more spectacular is the Nice Barrier Reef mendacity simply offshore, providing fringing reefs and quite a few islands like Inexperienced Island and Fitzroy Island inside comparatively straightforward attain from Cairns and the southern components of the area.
The Cairns to Daintree area experiences a tropical local weather characterised by heat to sizzling temperatures and excessive humidity year-round. It has distinct moist and dry seasons, with cooler temperatures seen between Could and November. This area is prone to tropical cyclones in the course of the moist season, which might convey robust winds and intense rainfall, however the rainforest is at its most vibrant and plush throughout this time, with rivers and waterfalls at their fullest.
This space of Far North Queensland is teeming with wildlife. From kangaroos that stay in bushes to birds of paradise, it could all be discovered inside a brief distance from the most important metropolis of Cairns. Lush rainforests combine with golden seashores and fertile pasturelands and dry Outback, making it attainable to see each ecosystem that Australia has to supply in a single journey. There are greater than 800 fowl species in Australia, and over half of them may be present in Far North Queensland. I’ve explored the world at size and in each the dry and moist seasons. A visit right here ought to begin in Cairns, however be warned, it’s such a great place for fowl watching that you could be not need to go away!
Cairns
Cairns is a small however vibrant metropolis, and I like to recommend it as a base to discover all that Far North Queensland has to supply. The picture above exhibits the Esplanade, which is a boardwalk of a number of miles operating from mangroves that cushion the town from the airport within the north, to the marina within the south. It’s a pretty place that locals use for recreation and is a central hub for fowl watchers. There is no such thing as a seaside as such. The world between the ocean and the boardwalk is cleared of mangroves and is basically mud. That makes it good for migratory waders who all know that people don’t intrude. Subsequently, the viewing platforms dotted alongside the stroll turn out to be great open hides the place you may get near the birds pushed shut by an incoming tide. In the summertime months (December – March) there isn’t any telling what is going to flip up right here.
Osprey, sea-eagles, storks, and huge herons are common guests circling overhead, in addition to frigatebirds when storms are approaching. The regionally named Jabiru (Black-necked Stork) hunts crabs within the mud, and it’s all the time a thrill to look at them arriving at low tide.
Lining the boardwalk is a large grassed space with giant fig bushes. Night time-Heron nest right here, terns relaxation, kingfishers hawk, and unique species just like the Rose-crowned Fruit-Dove sit excessive within the foliage.
It’s the most great place to wander and fowl watch. There are normally different fowl watchers round, and everyone seems to be keen to share their information. At occasions, you could find them taking a look at some rarity that has turned up. Offshore storms and unhealthy climate within the Outback to the west typically blow uncommon birds in. My favourite was the Purple-chested Buttonquail that stayed for just a few weeks.
Away from the Esplanade are the Botanical Gardens that stretch south into the town, together with freshwater and saltwater lakes. You’ll be able to spend all the day wandering right here, and naturally, the extra acquainted you get, the extra you see. The plush rainforest borders the lakes, together with drier eucalypt areas away from the extra sculpted botanical gardens. Native birders frequently have morning walks right here, and they’re an important supply of data.
Though the gardens and lakes are throughout the metropolis and solely a few miles from the middle, some very shy and cryptic birds can reliably be discovered right here. Probably the most sought-after are the tiny Little Kingfisher and the Black Bittern. Each nest right here, and whilst you want a eager eye to search out them, they each will sit out within the open at occasions.
You’ll be able to stroll the boardwalks by the rainforest to the south of the botanical gardens at night time, and there are all method of bugs, reptiles, and fascinating endemic creatures like echidnas. If you’re fortunate, you would possibly see the Papuan Frogmouth looking. If not, they are often discovered roosting within the gardens in the course of the day.
Additionally across the metropolis are Bush Thick-knee. Cairns is considered one of solely 2 city areas in Australia the place these uncommon birds may be came upon within the open. They’re the primary birds to search for when arriving from the airport. Unfazed by people, they’re widespread throughout the town.
In the course of the summer time months, Rainbow Bee-eaters are a beautiful customer to the town. Usually, they nest in hollows in sand banks. In Cairns, they favor the comfortable sand of the cemetery and may be seen in giant numbers dancing on this quiet space and digging holes in between the graves. Sitting on the grave stones makes an ideal picture alternative.
Michaelmas Cay
A brief 45-minute boat journey away is Michaelmas Cay. Set throughout the Nice Barrier Reef, it’s a great strategy to mix seeing the reef and a really busy seabird colony. The cay itself is only a small splodge of sand above the water, and most of it’s roped off to guard the birds. Whether or not you go to within the winter or harsh summer time, there are seabirds right here. Noddies, boobies, terns and frigatebirds can all be seen right here, resting or nesting.
Upon getting seen sufficient birds, the tour operators will take you onto the reef in a glass-bottomed boat, or you may snorkel across the reef. It’s the single greatest day trip from Cairns you are able to do.
Kuranda
Kuranda is a picturesque village situated roughly 16 miles northwest of Cairns, accessible through a scenic winding street, the well-known Kuranda Scenic Railway, or the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway. Most vacationers take the prepare up and Skyrail down. It’s a thrill both approach, with nice views of the Barron Falls. Surrounded by dense tropical rainforest, Kuranda provides stunning surroundings and strolling trails.
Whereas there are many vacationer sights throughout the village, the encompassing areas play host to some uncommon and gorgeous wildlife. Probably the most notorious and delightful is the Southern Cassowary, which can be seen wherever within the rainforest areas. They’re additionally recognized to cease site visitors when crossing the freeway operating south.
There are lots of walks round Kuranda, however to get one of the best out of the world, I all the time keep in one of many many rainforest B&Bs. When you get up throughout the rainforest, you would possibly get to see cryptic birds just like the Noticed Catbird, named for its yowling name.
Within the spring months (September – December), the world is stuffed with the raspy calls of the Victoria’s Riflebird. Most individuals don’t understand which you can see Birds of Paradise in northern Australia. The proximity of this space to Indonesia and Papua New Guinea implies that some very uncommon and gorgeous birds have made their dwelling right here. The male Victoria’s Riflebird may be seen all through Kuranda displaying its vibrant colours to draw a feminine.
The plush forest right here, with its vibrant array of fruits, attracts a spread of doves and unusual pigeons. The Wompoo Fruit-Dove is a really shy however brilliantly coloured giant dove that sits within the cover. The Topknot Pigeon is one other giant dove that originally seems quite plain gray however has essentially the most fabulous hairdo!
Mareeba
The Australian Outback is iconic, however most individuals don’t actually know the place or what it’s. The time period Outback is utilized to any space of Australia with comparatively few individuals residing there. Outback areas may be present in all states (presumably besides Tasmania) and they’re normally distant, dry, and with restricted vegetation and animals. That won’t sound like an important vacationer attraction, however the Outback can also be gorgeous,g and the sheer sense of wilderness is overwhelming. Whilst you may not be eager to enter the Outback (it’s, in any case, a harmful place), you may expertise the surprise of it if you happen to go to Mareeba. This small city is simply an hour’s drive west of Cairns over the Nice Dividing Vary, and it’s a nice location with moist tropic areas to the north, Outback to the west, and extra temperate rainforest to the south. There are lots of locations to remain that give views of the Outback, which is usually spectacular at sundown.
As this space is drier, flat, and open, the varieties of birds listed below are very completely different. Alongside the agricultural fields, you may typically see Australian Bustards strolling sedately. These magnificent birds are straightforward to look at and {photograph} from a automobile.
Households of emus are additionally frequent right here. The male Emu takes care of the chicks as soon as hatched, and it’s great to see him being so diligent and caring with them.
Cairns is dwelling to the frequent Australian iconic fowl, the Laughing Kookaburra. Legend has it that the early Tarzan movies used recordings of its name for the monkey chatter. Right here, the Blue-winged Kookaburra guidelines the roost. Bigger and shyer than their laughing cousin, they’re gorgeous and really fascinating. Typically seen (and heard, with a maniacal name) in small teams alongside roadsides, these big kingfishers are solely present in northern Queensland.
One other frequent dry nation fowl is the enigmatic Nice Bowerbird, and they are often discovered throughout Mareeba. Their hissing name appears like they’re perpetually indignant, however they’re truly very candy birds. The male builds a bower to impress the feminine after which decorates it with white, inexperienced, or pink objects they’ve collected. I visited a bower in a faculty as soon as, and all the kids needed to take away their pink coloring pencils as a result of the resident male would inevitably steal them! When in show, the male fowl opens a vivid pink crest on the again of the neck to additional showcase.
Certainly one of my favourite birds of this semi-arid nation is the Squatter Pigeon. Their facial markings are so engaging and photogenic, however they’re additionally very mild and candy birds. I as soon as watched a trio of them shuffling round in essentially the most diplomatic strategy to get the warmest spot within the center. They, together with a number of different dry specialist birds, may be discovered resident at a neighborhood caravan park, making sightings very straightforward and pleasing.
Daintree
A singular geographical function is the place the Daintree Rainforest actually meets the Nice Barrier Reef. This creates a surprising panorama of lush tropical vegetation extending proper all the way down to the ocean’s edge, with coral reefs simply offshore. The Daintree River is a major geographical function, appearing as a pure dividing line and a vital ecosystem in itself, supporting numerous wildlife, together with Estuarine Crocodiles. Crossing the Daintree River by ferry marks a symbolic entry into the center of the rainforest area. The Daintree Rainforest itself is the most important steady space of tropical rainforest in Australia, masking roughly 460 sq. miles. It’s estimated to be over 180 million years outdated, making it the oldest frequently surviving tropical rainforest on the earth.
The Daintree space is lower than 2 hours’ drive north of Cairns, and the rainforest is like nothing else I’ve ever seen. There may be the Daintree village and Cape Tribulation throughout the river, each providing great experiences and unimaginable wildlife. I normally base myself within the village and discover the world round it. Shut by is a small lane, lined with rainforest, and Buff-breasted Paradise-Kingfisher nest within the termite mounds there. I took an American birding good friend to see them, and we cried on the sight and puzzled why there weren’t busloads of individuals watching this miracle of nature!
The rainforest is patchy across the village, and there are pasture fields lining the roads, normally with cows in them. It is a excellent spot to see Forest Kingfishers, which frequently sit on the ability traces dipping all the way down to catch bugs and larvae.
Probably the most thrilling issues to do right here is to take a ship alongside the river. The guides are very properly knowledgeable and know precisely the place to go to search out birds (and the occasional giant crocodile!). The boats run at daybreak and nightfall and provides very completely different experiences, so it’s essential to do each. The most effective sighting right here is the large Nice-billed Heron, one of many largest herons on the earth.
Typically, sitting above the river are sea eagles. The boats can drift very near them, and you actually get a way of how giant and highly effective these stunning birds are.
The Australian equal of the hummingbird is quite common right here. The Sahul Sunbird is a tiny nectar-feeding fowl, therefore the lengthy, curved invoice. Guests getting on the vacationer boats or crossing the river typically need to skirt the pendulous nests of those assured birds, as they typically construct them in very inconvenient locations.
Julatten
Julatten is situated west of the Nice Dividing Vary, between Mareeba within the south and the Daintree within the north. It’s largely cleared rainforest, however the tropical local weather stays and creates a really fascinating ecosystem the place rainforest birds may be seen extra out within the open. Any patch of unattended land reverts to a wetland, like Abattoir Swamp above. Exploring areas like that is greatest finished with a neighborhood information.
The swamp is definitely fairly dry, with eucalyptus bushes lining a small parking space after which opening into the swamp. Lower than a mile down the street is Hunter Creek Park, which is a patch of thick rainforest. Birds from each environments may be seen right here. The Azure Kingfisher is a moist, humid specialist, however may be present in different areas within the locale. Endemic birds just like the Yellow-breasted Boatbill are frequent right here and can be discovered within the drier areas. Their big invoice is uncommon and appears virtually unnatural.
A particular place right here is Kingfisher Park. It’s a small patch of thick rainforest and is devoted to fowl watching. Staying right here for so long as attainable is a should. In the course of the summer time months, paradise-kingfisher, pitta, and the very uncommon Purple-necked Crake may be discovered right here. It’s a fairly wonderful place and, barring extreme rainfall, very straightforward to fowl watch.
That is one of the best space to search out many uncommon, endemic birds just like the Pretty Fairywren. These tiny birds are so pretty and really wanted. Not like different fairywren species, they preserve this plumage with their distinctive spectacles all 12 months spherical. The male fowl is pictured under left and the feminine is under proper.
An area fowl watching favourite right here has been Mount Lewis. It’s a tough observe up the hill and has been a dependable place to search out rarities just like the Golden and Tooth-billed Bowerbird. My favourite sighting was of the extraordinarily tough to search out, Blue-faced Parrotfinch. The street was broken in a latest cyclonic storm. Native guides will be capable of assist with transport and entry right here.
Ultimate Ideas
Whereas Queensland itself is a mecca for fowl watchers seeking to see as many native birds as attainable, the Cairns space provides much more, with many tropical endemics residing right here due to the proximity and comparable local weather to locations like Papua New Guinea. Starting with Cairns and travelling outwards provides you entry to completely different environments and maximises the potential to see all kinds of fowl species. Additional afield, Cape York can also be to the north, which is a wilderness incomparable to wherever else within the nation. Birds just like the very uncommon Purple Goshawk may be discovered right here.
In direction of the tip of the cape are many extra endemics which have spilled over from Papua. Very unique birds just like the Papuan Eclectus are frequent right here.
Southwest of Cairns are the Atherton Tablelands and the Crater Lakes areas. Each provide great surroundings, animals, and quite a lot of birds. Cranes, bowerbirds, and owls are all discovered simply on this space.
It’s undoubtedly a protracted journey to get to Far North Queensland, however that’s the solely laborious half. As soon as you might be there, distances are manageable, and the sheer variety of fowl species and the entry to them are mind-blowing. It must be on each birder’s bucket checklist.
